21. North Cascades NP (Mt. Shuksan, Forbidden Peak)
Mazama, Washington

Climbing Type Grades Height Rock Type Quantity of Rock Cliff Aspect
Alpine;Mixture Mixed Granite Lifetime Mixed

Development Number of Routes Season Ownership Camping Quality
Partial Summer National Park Service/US Forest Service Free ****

 

 

Directions:

North Cascades National Park is an enormous wilderness area extending from Glacier / Mt. Baker Ski Area in the north to the north tip of Lake Chelan in the south. Various access points within North Cascades National Park and Mt. Baker National Forest. Most areas reached off Hwy 20 W of Mazama and E of Sedro Woolley. Or, NE of Sedro Woolley on Hwy 542 (Mt. Baker Hwy).

Notes:

How do you describe an encyclopedic wonderland of alpine rock & ice routes in 3 lines of print? Simple! See Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guides. Mt. Shuskan (9,127') with its 10 square miles of real estate was first ascended in 1906 and is probably the most celebrated mountain in the state of Washington, often called "The Showpiece of the Cascades". It is typical of numerous North Cascade mixed ice, snow, and rock routes. Forbidden Peak in the southern end of the park offers similar challenges. Washington Pass has best concentration of rock climbs, i.e., Liberty Bell, Early Winter Spires, etc.

Classics:

Mt. Shuksan- Price Glacier Rt, Forbidden Peak- W Ridge 5.2, 1700' NW Face 5.7, Early Morning Spire, Mt. Goode- NE Buttress 5.5, Mt. Triumph- NE Ridge, Liberty Bell, Wine Spires, North Twin, American Border Peak, Nooksack Tower, Hozomeen Mtn, Cathedral Pk, Ampitheater Pk

References:

AAJ ['93, 92-129, 91-165, 90-162/165, 89-142, 88-129, 86-151, 85-188, 84 to 78, 76-340, 75-125, 74, 72, 69-65, 47], C [144, 125, 115, 103, 97, 95, 93, 70], Mntnr '46, OB 10(8/73), Su [11/87, 3/87, 8/85, 8/77, 4/73, 10/71, 9/70, 7/69, 5/68, 3/67, 5/65, 11/64, 5/64, 1/63, 3/61]; Climbing in North America.; Guidebook(s): Nelson/Potterfield's Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Fifty Classic Climbs, Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Cascade Alpine Guide II

1